The finest new watches showcasing key craftsmanship techniques

Out of the many decorative and finishing techniques, few watches exemplify them as plainly and alluringly as these.

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Digital imaging: Ang Yong Kiat
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  1. 1. Gem-Setting: Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5811/1460G-001 
  2. 2. Pinstripe Guilloche: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold
  3. 3. Straw Marquetry: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25
  4. 4. Hobnail Guilloche: Franck Muller Curvex CX
  5. 5. Engraving: Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey
  6. 6. Lacquering: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph
  7. 7. Mirror Polishing: Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”
  8. 8. Enamelling: Ulysse Nardin [X Gold Enamel]
  9. 9. Skeletonisation: Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton

Gem-Setting: Patek Philippe Nautilus Haute Joaillerie Ref. 5811/1460G-001 

Elevating the beauty of the Nautilus design is this scintillating 41mm white gold edition, which features a masterful play of diamond shapes. A row of baguette-cut diamonds lines the rounded octagon of the bezel, which envelopes the perfect rows of brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial.

Even the bracelet bears a dazzling flourish, featuring baguette-cut diamonds on the central links and brilliant-cut diamond rows. Set in compliance with the Patek Philippe Seal standards, the 1,480 diamonds, totalling 19.7 carats, are as remarkable as the calibre 26-330 S self-winding movement with a stop-seconds function.

Pinstripe Guilloche: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold

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Digital imaging: Ang Yong Kiat

Powered by the new calibre DR002, developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, this latest model descended from the lauded 1990 original retains the iconic double-ellipse silhouette with a centred gadroon. Tactile and visually breathtaking, it boasts a two-toned dial with a rose gold chapter ring, contrasting with a solid white gold base etched with flawless pinstripe guillochage.

Maintaining the same 35.5mm by 38.6mm dimensions as the Extra Plat Souscription, it also showcases redesigned lugs and a reduced thickness of 7.7mm for enhanced comfort, along with an open caseback that allows for exceptional movement finishings to be admired.

Straw Marquetry: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25

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Digital imaging: Ang Yong Kiat

This eight-piece artistic rendition is presented in a 40mm ethical rose gold case with a stunning straw marquetry dial — a first for the highly technical L.U.C collection — crafted using 17th-century techniques. Burgundy rye straw is hand-dyed green, split, flattened, and cut into tiny hexagons before being assembled in a honeycomb pattern, creating depth and texture.

At its heart beats the ultra-thin L.U.C 98.06-L manual-wound movement, distinguished by its jumping hour complication visible through a 6 o’clock aperture. The innovative Chopard Quattro technology features four stacked barrels, delivering an impressive eight-day power reserve.

Hobnail Guilloche: Franck Muller Curvex CX

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Digital imaging: Ang Yong Kiat

The latest model in the redesigned Curvex CX case, which hails from the distinctive and perfectly curved silhouette of the Cintree Curvex, is this stunner flaunting a new and specially created guilloche technique.

Giving a spiralling twist to the classic hobnail (Clous de Paris) pattern, it produces a mesmerising reflection off the tiny three-dimensional pyramids, which increase in size as they radiate outwards. Enhancing its visibility is the near-invisible bezel and sapphire crystal that extends to the bracelet. Equipped with the self-winding FM 2536-SC movement, this 36mm by 53.1mm watch boasts a 42-hour power reserve.

Engraving: Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition Honey

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Descended from an exceptional 1889 pocket watch by Constant Girard, this modern-day 43mm pink gold wristwatch iteration pays homage to its namesake with three golden bridges and a slew of featured crafts.

The most arresting feature is the elaborate engraving on the case, lugs, and bezel, as well as the galloping thoroughbreds on the dial and back of the Savonette case. Others that bathe the watch in a honey-toned glow include Grand Feu and Champleve enamelling, sunray and circular guilloche, and fluting. Powered by the automatic Tourbillon with Three Bridges GP09600-2083 movement, this model is limited to 18 pieces.

Lacquering: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

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What belies the sporty-chic aesthetic and balanced proportions of this 42mm ocean grey lacquer model is what it took to make the dial components stand out: 35 layers of lacquer, each applied manually, in an exacting process to impart depth and richness.

Providing a subtle contrast to the textured hours ring is sunray brushing on the glossy central disc, which bears a light-to-dark colour gradient also found on the former. The two sub-dials also bear circular graining. Through the sapphire crystal caseback, the finely finished Calibre 761 automatic movement sits, featuring a fully integrated chronograph mechanism that offers a 65-hour power reserve.

Mirror Polishing: Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”

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The Black Bay 54 collection adopts a resort-inspired appeal with this rendition, inspired by the sea and sun. The mirror-polished bezel on the 37mm case isn’t just functional, but evokes the reflection of clear waters and blue skies. Speaking of light, the five-link bracelet with polished centre links piles on the shine, and when it comes to blue, it enlivens the sand-textured dial with an azure hue.

As expected, the dive watch boasts all the technical hallmarks: snowflake hands coated with Grade A Super-Luminova, and the COSC-certified manufacture calibre MT5400, featuring a silicon balance spring and a 70-hour power reserve.

Enamelling: Ulysse Nardin [X Gold Enamel]

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The avant-garde and more accessible Freak X, which owes its pedigree to its revolutionary high horology parent, Freak, has introduced rare métiers d’art long cherished by the brand — a first for the collection

In this 120-piece edition, the striking guilloche-flinqué rotating disc features an off-centre sunray pattern. It is enhanced with rich, deep blue enamelling, performed by artisans from the Donze Cadrans workshop. Made of blue PVD titanium with rose gold side parts, the 43mm case and bezel encircle the emblematic flying carousel, which rotates to indicate the time. Its calibre UN-230 automatic manufacture movement offers 72 hours of power reserve.

Skeletonisation: Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton

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Transforming a watch into a sculptural delight, skeletonisation is an aesthetic unveiling of its architecture. This demanding achievement is epitomised in this 40mm stainless steel edition with a 950 platinum knurled bezel.

Multiple components of the automatic PF 777 calibre, such as the bridges, are openworked, featuring satin-brushing, polishing, sandblasting, and hand-bevelling — all precision-engineered to interact with light and express a contemporary pizazz. And imparting an attractive chromatic dimension and increased legibility to this 50-piece model is a luminous slate green dial, inspired by the favoured colour palette of Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier.

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