There are no jewels more joyful than Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest Lucky Spring collection

Every Springtime, jewellery lovers look to one particular maison for its light-hearted, bejewelled expressions. It’s none other than Van Cleef & Arpels, which has always had a special fondness for the season of renewal, optimism, and awakening of nature from slumber. 

First introduced in 2021, the Lucky Spring collection captures that effervescence in jewellery form, transforming annually to throw up surprises. This year, it introduces the butterfly into its universe of joyful motifs, alongside a new Poetic Complications watch that encapsulates the spirit of gaiety.

Garden in bloom

At the heart of Lucky Spring is a charming composition of flora and fauna — ladybirds, plum blossoms, lily-of-the-valley buds, and tender leaves — arranged with as much elegance as spontaneity. 

The butterfly’s induction expands the visual narrative, lending the collection a sense of lightness and movement. Long associated with the Parisian house since 1906, the playful papillon makes an endearing and much-welcome entrance.

Rendered in yellow gold, the new creations highlight Van Cleef & Arpels’ enduring love for ornamental stones. Blue agate and lapis lazuli form the butterfly’s wings, while green agate brings the foliage to life. White mother-of-pearl softens the palette, catching the light with a subtle iridescence. 

Each element is framed by the maison’s signature double-beaded contour, imbuing the pieces with both definition and delicacy.

Five fine jewellery designs form the collection: a long necklace, a bracelet, a clip, earrings, and a ring between the fingers. Across these, the butterfly appears in varied orientations — sometimes in profile, sometimes in full figurative form with antennae — creating a sense of rhythm and asymmetry that mirrors nature itself.

Craft in exquisite detail

Beyond its sprightly aesthetic lies craftsmanship and gravitas befitting a high jewellery house. The pieces are shaped using the traditional lost-wax casting technique before being meticulously hand-finished. Polishing is carried out on both the front and back, including along the beaded edges, ensuring that each creation gleams from every angle.

Stone selection is equally exacting. Only a small proportion of the agate sourced is chosen, favouring those with the most even and saturated colour. The mother-of-pearl, too, is selected for its rare lustre and consistent sheen. It is this restraint — knowing what not to use as much as what to include — that imparts the collection its harmony.

The between-the-finger ring stands out as a particularly impressive piece. Here, a butterfly appears poised alongside a blossom and a budding sprig, arranged across different levels to create depth and movement. It is a small but perfect example of how Van Cleef & Arpels translates nature into volume and relief.

Time in motion

For the first time, the collection features Poetic Complication: the Lady Lucky Spring Butterfly watch. Housed in a 33mm yellow gold case, the dial presents an enchanting miniature tableau, with three textured gold and mother-of-pearl blossoms set against a deep blue guilloche background.

Time unfolds through a retrograde minutes display and jumping hours, animated by a butterfly that flits across the dial. The hour is indicated by an aperture in the shape of a lily-of-the-valley bud in white mother-of-pearl. As the minutes progress, the insect advances gradually, returning to its starting point at the top of each hour.

Every detail, from the enamel accents to the diamond-set bezel and the engraved caseback, reflects the house’s famed dual mastery of jewellery and watchmaking.