These 9 quiet luxury timepieces show that watchmaking virtuosity needs no bells and whistles

1. Rolex Perpetual 1908 

The latest iteration of the Rolex Perpetual 1908 line launched last year is dressy refinement at its best. This 39mm platinum model features an ice-blue dial exclusive to the brand’s watches made with this prestigious metal. Delicate craftsmanship elements include the dial’s guilloche rice-grain motif that reflects light dynamically, a rosette-like motif at 6 o'clock, the bezel fluting, and the minute track's guilloche crimped pattern. It is powered by the mechanical Calibre 7140 manufacture movement with a bidirectional self-winding function.

2. Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green 

Celebrating the collection’s three core values of technical performance, aesthetic refinement, and watchmaking certification is this COSC chronometer. A fusion of vintage charm and contemporary horology, it boasts a PVD-treated dark green sector-type dial that exploded in popularity in the 30s and is making a comeback now. Housed in a 40mm case made of Lucent Steel, an exclusive Chopard alloy produced with a recycling rate of at least 80 per cent, is the proprietary L.U.C 96.12-L calibre.

3. H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon

With such pared-down, crisp, and vintage-inspired aesthetics, a highly technical complication has never looked this captivating. Completely devoid of excess, the smoked salmon-coloured dial features just four hands in the centre, a big date window, and a power reserve indicator. A special edition available for 12 months only as a nod to this leap year, this 42.3mm H. Moser & Cie watch should also be admired through its sapphire caseback for its HMC 812 calibre finished in an ultra-contemporary style.

4. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar

Nothing represents the quintessential dress watch better than the new Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, which has been subtly modernised in looks and improved in ergonomics compared to the original launched in 2013. Classy, intricate, yet understated, this 39mm steel model flaunts a mesmerising moonphase on a sunray-brushed silver dial. Beating at its heart is the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868, which features a new escapement and pallets and a significantly increased power reserve of 70 hours.

5. IWC Portugieser Chronograph 

While IWC's wildly successful Portugieser collection dates back to 1939, the introduction of the chronograph in 1998 imbued it with a sporty elegance perfect for the contemporary collector. Among this year’s new colour codes, Dune stands out for evoking the peachy-golden rays of dusk, lighting up the painstakingly crafted dial that took more than 60 steps to accomplish. Housed in a stainless steel case, the robust in-house 69355 calibre mechanical movement in classic column-wheel design ensures the watch’s precision and reliability.

6. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 

When this iconic Patek Philippe watch was launched in 1968, it made a splash for its unique aesthetic, a bold departure from traditional watch shapes. Through the decades, various dial colours and strap types of leather and chain have been featured. Gracing this year’s Ref. 5738/1R-001 with an ebony-black sunburst dial is a brand-new rose gold bracelet with a modern patented construction, which unites comfort with timelessness. Adding to the sheer refinement is the Caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement.

7. Cartier Prive Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

Incorporating the new Manufacture 1928 MC calibre, this 43.7mm by 34.8mm yellow gold model revisits Cartier’s emblematic 1928 monopusher chronograph. Now boasting a thinner profile at 4.3mm, it is Cartier’s slimmest chronograph movement. The activation of the start, stop, and reset functions is ingeniously integrated into a single push-button within the crown, while the dial is a masterclass in the balance of shapes. Both exemplify the simplicity and elegance that its circa-1912 tonneau case is famous for.

8. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Introduced two decades ago and inspired by 50s watches, the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collection has the distinct honour of elevating high watchmaking minimalism. This new 42.5mm moonphase retrograde date model in white gold continues in the same spirit, with a new dial colour of an exquisite sunburst old-silver-toned shade. The in-house self-winding Calibre 2460 R31L also powers the alluring moonphase indication and a retrograde date display along the top half of the dial, as well as a house technical and style signature. 

9. Hermes Cut

The art of geometry in watchmaking has another superstar in the new Hermes Cut collection, which merges a sharp-edged profile with clean, soft lines. Enhanced by the satin-brushed and polished case and bracelet, as well as the luminescent applied Arabic numerals on an opaline silver-toned dial, this 36mm two-toned steel and rose gold watch positively glows. Even a scintillating diamond-set bezel does not detract from its design purity. It is powered by the Manufacture Hermès H1912 mechanical self-winding calibre movement.