Why did the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller steal the show?

Days before Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 rolled around again, pictures of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller surfaced on social media — worn by tennis superstar Roger Federer in what looked like a furtive snapshot. This tantalising peek was quickly followed by official-looking publicity images, lighting up watch lovers’ accounts and online chat groups.

It had to be seen to be believed, and indeed, the rumours were true. Fortunately for those of us at the debut presentation of Rolex’s showpiece this year, the intriguing design (that some likened to the OysterQuartz dating back to 1975) is just one of its superlative features. 

In addition to our introductory report on the watch, here are three Rolex specialists to give further insight into a creation that brings together a host of engineering, design, and craftsmanship expertise within the manufacture — a feat rarely attempted before.

Frank Vernay, head of movements at Rolex

Where does the Dynapulse escapement stand in terms of progress in watchmaking?

The Dynapulse escapement constitutes a new technical signature for Rolex. It is a revolution in watchmaking while remaining true to our brand’s fundamental principles and traditions. This sequential distribution escapement particularly offers high energy efficiency, approximately 30 per cent more than a conventional Swiss lever escapement, while taking up no more space. Thanks to the Dynapulse escapement, Rolex can now extend the family of 71XX movements with the addition of a 5Hz calibre.

The groundwork for this high-performance escapement began around 10 years ago. It has taken time for the project to mature and for us to get to where we are today, with a solution covered by a total of seven patent applications. Much of the work concentrated on simplifying the shape of the wheels and the impulse rocker so that these components could be made out of silicon. 

Fitting such a complex mechanism into the same space as a conventional Swiss lever escapement constituted a real technological challenge, as did the production and pre-assembly of the small components in silicon. Then, assembling the Dynapulse escapement in the calibre entailed a complete rethink of our movement manufacturing and assembly processes.

What were the challenges in increasing the movement frequency?

Increasing the frequency from 4Hz to 5Hz constitutes a major step for Rolex in the history of precision. The higher a movement’s frequency, the more quickly it consumes the energy supplied by the self-winding system. This energy consumption needed to be optimised. We therefore completely redesigned the escapement, enabling us to offer the same power reserve as that of Calibre 7140.

Suitable solutions also had to be found to guarantee the movement’s reliability. The new rate also meant modifying our algorithms and measuring equipment. Additionally, we had to develop a diagnostic system to validate the functioning of the Dynapulse escapement in each assembled movement prior to casing, given that there is no longer any pallet stone adjustment as in a traditional Swiss lever escapement.

For the owner of the watch, what are the practical advantages in everyday wear?

A higher frequency confers greater stability to the rate of the watch in all circumstances. Robustness and reliability are enhanced, no matter the activity the wearer may be engaged in.

Davide Airoldi, head of design at Rolex

What was the main aesthetic challenge in designing the Land-Dweller?

“A model to be inspired by our aesthetic heritage but looking to the future”: This was the brief for the design of the Land-Dweller. Finding a harmonious balance between these two worlds was certainly our biggest challenge. We came up with creative new codes without ever losing sight of the brand’s DNA or its style. At the same time, we integrated technical innovations from the Research and Development Division in the most refined and elegant way possible.

Why did you opt for alternate polished and satin finishes?

The design has to emphasise the aesthetic coherence between the two distinct elements of bracelet and case. The shapes and finishings must all be in perfect harmony. Our choice of alternate satin and polished finishes reprises an aesthetic code already present on a number of Classic models. The polished facets and chamfers alongside the flat, technical satin-finished surfaces produce a striking contrast that brings the Land-Dweller to life, with the multitude of reflections highlighting the watch’s refinement.

For the wearer, what are the practical benefits of a watch with an integrated bracelet?

In terms of comfort, the broader bracelet means that there is a larger area of contact with the wrist. The watch therefore sits more securely and is better positioned. In terms of appearance, the visual fluidity between the Flat Jubilee bracelet and the Oyster case lends great elegance to the Land-Dweller, which is as robust and reliable as other Rolex watches. Everything comes together to make this new watch an ideal timepiece for all occasions.

Mathieu Vorontchouk, head of dial prototypes at Rolex

What was the greatest challenge in laser engraving the dial?

One of the main challenges in creating the honeycomb motif on the dial of the Land-Dweller lay in producing the contrast between the top of the hexagons, which are matt or sunray-finished, and the grooves separating them. These grooves are decorated with a laser-etched, concentric circular motif, giving them a subtle shimmer.

Why and how was the luminescent material for the hour markers modified?

For the applique index hour markers, which are open-ended, we used a new variant of luminescent material that can be machined. This technical characteristic allowed us to create an original look and extend the material the full length of the markers.

What were the main issues you faced in terms of the dial construction?

Adding a flange to the top plate posed a major challenge. A specific geometry had to be devised for this element around the edge of the dial, to ensure that it remains securely in place when exposed to shocks.