Watches and Wonders 2025: Love at first sight

These six creations stole our hearts amidst the hundreds of new models debuting at the recent Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025. They represent the pinnacle of watchmaking magic — each in their own ways. Jump in to find out why we’re crushing so hard on them.

1. Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II in 18ct Everose Gold with Tiger Iron Dial

One of the most popular Rolex models, the GMT-Master II has become so iconic that its various two-tone bezel variations are known by collectors as “Pepsi”, “Batman”, and “Rootbeer”, among other nicknames. This year, the “Root Beer” gets a stunning update with a new and mesmerising tiger iron dial.

No stranger to crafting exotic ornamental dials for its watches, Rolex has chosen this unique metamorphic rock composed of three minerals — tiger’s eye, red jasper, and silvery hematite — to give this classic sports watch an amazing allure.

Sourced from Australia and meticulously selected for its golden and orangey hues, the stone complements the warm tones of the 40mm 18ct Everose gold case and Oyster bracelet, not to mention the brown and black Cerachrom bezel crafted from high-tech ceramic for durability.

The bi-directional rotatable 24-hour rotatable bezel and arrow-tipped GMT hand allow dual time-zone tracking, with the home time read via the bezel, while the independent jumping hour hand adjusts local time seamlessly. Another feature that makes the watch so loved by jetsetters: the strong and comfortable Oyster bracelet featuring an Oysterlock clasp for security and an Easylink extension system for on-the-fly adjustments.

2. Patek Philippe Calatrava 8 Day Reference 5328G-001

Who doesn’t love the quiet luxury vibes of Patek Philippe’s iconic Calatrava? The Reference 96 from 1932 basically defined what a modern dress watch should look like: clean dial, slim profile, elegant proportions. Many brands have followed in its footsteps, but Patek did it first — and arguably the best.

Setting new standards is the new Calatrava 8 Day Reference 5328G-001 featuring practical daily complications within a refined 41mm white gold case. It showcases the new manually-wound Calibre 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, and as its name suggests, offers an impressive 8-day power reserve with a ninth reserve day indicated in red on the arched subdial at 12 o’clock.

The caseband flaunts Clous de Paris guilloche patterns, while the textured blue dial with black-gradient rim presents a clean vertical layout: power reserve at 12 o’clock, and instantaneous day display via an aperture, alongside the date display and small seconds at 6 o’clock.

Technical innovations include Patek Philippe’s advanced Pulsomax escapement in Silinvar for enhanced precision, with two series-coupled barrels that maintain consistent torque throughout the 192-hour autonomy. The instantaneous day/date mechanism — derived from the Cubitus Reference 5822P-001 — employs a patented cam system with dual-function spring for reliable midnight jumps.

The creation comes with two interchangeable straps: a navy blue calfskin with fabric texture and cream stitching, plus a grained taupe option, both secured by a patented triple-blade fold-over clasp. The 10.52mm-thick case reveals its flawlessly finished movement through a sapphire caseback, showcasing Geneva stripes and the innovative escapement. Limited corrections, at five times annually, are required for the date, while a stop-seconds function enables precise time-setting.

3. Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Moon Phase

Among the many new models celebrating Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary is this impossibly exquisite 36mm pink gold Traditionelle Moon Phase that’s limited to just 270 pieces.

The diamond-set case houses the manufacture Calibre 1410 AS/270, featuring a remarkably precise (and also beautiful) astronomical moonphase complication that deviates by merely one day every 122 years. A shimmering mother-of-pearl dial displays the celestial indication at 6 o’clock alongside small seconds and a 38-hour power reserve indicator, all framed by faceted dauphine hands and gold baton markers.

The dial’s distinctive motif, which is used across all the commemorative Traditionelle and Patrimony this year, is a reinterpretation of Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross emblem — through a geometric guilloche pattern that plays with light.

Through the sapphire caseback, the movement reveals an exclusive cote unique finishing, which is a rediscovered 19th-century technique requiring over 500 hours of artisan development to achieve seamless flowing lines across the bridges. Each component bears meticulous hand-decoration, while a special anniversary emblem is discreetly engraved on the calibre.

4. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

Breaking yet another record with its 1.85mm thinness, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon redefines ultra-thin watchmaking, integrating a skeletonised flying tourbillon into a 40mm microbead-frosted titanium case.

The BVL 900 manual-wound movement, beating at 28,800vph (4Hz), delivers a 42-hour power reserve while maintaining structural integrity through a tungsten carbide main plate — an engineering feat that merges case and movement into a single ultra-slim profile. And indeed, this monochromatic masterpiece was a sight to behold.

Inspired by Rome’s Basilica of Maxentius, the skeletonised architecture enhances light diffusion, revealing meticulously finished components: a rhodium-plated tourbillon balance, sunburst-finished bridge, and polished bezel flange. Two circular-grained steel planar crowns (8 o’clock for winding, 3 o’clock for time-setting) protrude minimally, preserving the watch’s razor-thin silhouette. The sand-blasted anthracite dial features rhodium-plated hands for optimal legibility, a departure from earlier regulator-style Ultra models.

Mirroring the case’s finesse, the integrated titanium bracelet measures just 1.5mm thick, including its folding clasp. Eight patents underpin innovations like the bi-material caseback and modular construction. The tourbillon, visible through the openworked dial, oscillates at the heart of this creation — a tribute to Bvlgari’s decade-long pursuit of thinness, initiated by the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon introduced in 2014.

5. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantieme ‘Enamel’

The art of enamelling is no doubt one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signatures, which has been taken to extraordinary heights by the Reverso Tribute Nonantieme ‘Enamel’. First introduced in 2021 to celebrate the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, the model returns in an even more remarkable edition that blends technical innovation with the finest craftsmanship.

Housed in a pink gold case measuring 45.5mm by 27.4mm, this 90-piece limited edition features the manual-winding Calibre 826 comprising 243 components with a 42-hour power reserve. The graceful grey sunray-brushed dial showcases elongated applied indexes, dauphine hands, and a chemin de fer minutes track, while a patented Grande Date display at 12 o’clock and a moonphase against a starry sky simply define horological sophistication.

The true marvel lies on the reverse: a handcrafted night-blue enamel dial adorned with 70 pink gold stars, requiring 10 hours of laborious work. Two overlapping apertures form a figure-eight display — the upper with a semi-jumping digital hour, the lower with a rotating minutes disc beneath a star-speckled blue lacquer. A central day/night indicator with guilloche sunrays and laser-engraved coordinates completes this celestial tribute to the Reverso’s enduring legacy.

6. Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 — Straw Marquetry Edition

Chopard’s L.U.C. (Louis-Ulysse Chopard) line has to be one of the best-kept secrets in high-end watchmaking. For starters, its proprietary movements often come with the Geneva Seal finish and COSC certification, while its illustrious heritage as a luxury jeweller ensures excellent finishing on watch bridges, bevels, and rotors — all offered at a more approachable price point compared to the legacy manufactures.

One of the most covetable in the latest L.U.C line-up is this artistic rendition of the Quattro Spirit 25. An eight-piece limited edition, it is presented in a 40mm ethical rose gold case with a stunning straw marquetry dial — a first for the L.U.C collection — crafted using 17th-century techniques. Burgundy rye straw is hand-dyed green, meticulously split, flattened, and cut into tiny hexagons before being assembled in a honeycomb pattern on a rose gold base, creating depth and texture.

At its heart beats the L.U.C 98.06-L manual-wound movement, distinguished by its jumping hour complication visible through a 6 o’clock aperture. The innovative Chopard Quattro technology incorporates four stacked barrels delivering an impressive eight-day power reserve. The ultra-thin 4.85mm movement features a Phillips terminal curve balance spring and swan’s neck regulator, while displaying exquisite Geneva stripes and gilded engravings worthy of its Poincon de Geneve certification.

The technical brilliance extends to thoughtful details: a power reserve indicator visible through the exhibition caseback, a balance-stop function for precise time-setting, and a central minutes hand complementing the jumping hour display.