Six of the most amazing independent watchmakers that clinched top prizes at GPHG 2024

Some 90 timepieces were nominated for a total of 20 award categories at the 2024 edition of the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG), which is an annual competition held in Geneva to celebrate and promote watchmaking art.

Highly anticipated among connoisseurs, and hotly contested among brands, the event was presided over by a jury of 30 industry professionals from the world over, led by its president, Nicholas Foulkes, who is a horology historian, author, and journalist.

Collectors exploring independent brands will be glad to know that some of the winners are represented right here in Singapore, by Sincere Fine Watches.

1. Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Bovet 1822 Recital 28 Prowess 1

The result of over five years of development, the Bovet 1822 Recital 28 Prowess 1 features meticulous hand-finishing, hand-engraved bridges, and a limited production of only 60. This timepiece marks a significant leap in solving terrestrial timekeeping challenges, ensuring accuracy in global timekeeping. In addition to this groundbreaking feature, this 46.3mm titanium creation also boasts an expanded flying tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with roller-based indications, and an impressive 10-day power reserve from a single barrel.

2. Time Only Prize: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

Crafted from stainless steel, the 39mm cushion-shaped case of this H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel draws inspiration from the curved, streamlined aesthetics of the first high-speed trains of the 1920s and 30s. Its proportions have been refined, offering more elongated lines made possible by the smaller dimensions of the new calibre HMC 500. The integrated steel bracelet, elegantly arced, seamlessly extends the curves of the case for a cohesive design. It is also water-resistant to 120m.

3. Chronometry Prize: Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer

One of the standout features of this Lederer Triple Certified Observatory Chronometer is its unique minute hand, which moves in harmony with the Remontoir d’Egalite every 10 seconds. The minute hand glides across a scale divided into six steps, each representing a 10-sec interval, culminating in a full minute. A small central pointer precisely marks these intervals, synchronised with the rhythm of the remontoir.

Another distinguishing feature is the solid silver dial, achieved through a traditional heating process involving multiple boiling baths and reheating steps to reach a pure white hue. The dial proudly displays the V symbol inspired by the meridian sign, while the seconds sub-dial features the coordinates of three historically significant observatories: the Observatory in Glashutte, Germany; the Observatory in Besancon, France; and the Observatory Chronometrique in Geneva, Switzerland. Each 44mm stainless steel creation in this limited edition of eight is individually certified by these three observatories.

4. Calendar & Astronomy Watch Prize: Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver

A fusion of celestial elegance and mechanical mastery, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon showcases a moon phase complication crafted with Aventurine glass and is powered by the redesigned LF126.02 calibre. Combining an annual calendar with an impressive 80-hour power reserve, it is housed in a sleek 40mm red gold case. Through the sapphire caseback, an expansive view reveals the intricate LF126.02 calibre, showcasing the finesse of its hand-finished surfaces crafted by manufacture watchmakers to the highest standards of traditional high horology.

5. “Petite Aiguille” Prize: KUDOKE 3 Salmon

In this category for watches priced between CHF3,000 and CHF10,000 ($4,527-15,090), the striking salmon-coloured creation by German independent brand KUDOKE shone with its unconventional display and timeless design. The warm pink tone of its dial harmonises beautifully with blue steel hands, creating a captivating visual contrast. Minutes are indicated by a large blue steel hand on the dial chapter ring at the top. The hour indication, meanwhile, is placed on an attached plate divided into three sections on the dial below, with a unique three-armed hand that moves seamlessly between the two dials.

This 39mm stainless steel timepiece features the hand-wound KALIBER 1 movement that is completely hand-finished and visible through a sapphire crystal caseback.

6. Eco-innovation Prize: Chopard L.U.C Qualite Fleurier

Chopard’s commitment to haute horlogerie values, as championed by the Fleurier Quality Foundation, is represented by this first timepiece in the L.U.C Qualite Fleurier family to be crafted in Lucent Steel. The material is Chopard’s exclusive alloy with at least 80 per cent recycled content, and showcases the maison’s belief in pairing sustainability with innovation.

The 39mm model with a slim 8.92mm profile features a resized crown and lugs, along with an elegant, functional silver-toned monochrome sector dial. The L.U.C 96.09-L movement is chronometer-certified and equipped with Chopard Twin technology. Beyond precision, the Fleurier Quality Foundation label guarantees the watch’s reliability, durability, and aesthetic excellence.