From wagyu to shark’s fin: Tenshima elevates tempura to a haute kaiseki format with grace and precision

Shark’s fin is rarely seen on menus these days. When it appears, you are in for a treat. More so when it is shark’s fin tempura. At the 10-seater Tenshima, chef Takahiro Shima prepares this intriguing course by marinating shark’s fin with ginger, sake, and spring onion, steaming it for two hours before gently simmering it in dashi for 20 minutes. He then fries the gelatinous slab to a perfect crisp.

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Shima, who has 16 years of kaiseki experience, is elevating the tempura experience by giving this 16th century culinary artform the kaiseki treatment. Exhibiting thoughtfulness and grandeur, kaiseki is Japan's poetic response to grande cuisine. The multi-course meal showcases artisanal seasonal produce, and its beauty lies in the art and techniques used to distil flavours. This is where Shima’s talent comes in.

At Tenshima, Shima begins the fine-dining tempura experience with an appetiser of Matsutake and Hamo Hot Pot, both seasonal delicacies on the autumn menu. "Hamo, or Japanese conger eel, is especially delicious in the fall," he says. “Hamo fattens up before hibernating for the winter, and the increased fat content enhances its flavour.” 

His kaiseki expertise shines through as he grills the hamo bones for the soup stock, seasons the soup stock with mirin and light soy sauce, and steams it with Matsutake mushrooms, seri (Japanese parsley), and hamo to extract the essence of these autumnal ingredients.

According to Shima, "the key to good tempura lies in getting everything just right — from the temperature and batter consistency to the order of serving and other essential factors; none of them can be overlooked."

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Meticulous in his frying, Shima uses light and clean tasting sunflower oil. He carefully prepares his ingredients, then coats them in a light batter of low-gluten flour, egg yolk, and filtered water to attain a golden, crispy texture after frying. While Shima recommends simple seasonings like salt and lemon juice to highlight the natural flavours of ingredients, he has gone on to create an array of condiments, such as the traditional tempura sauce, curry salt, or pickled plums, to enhance the flavours of the tempura.

The wagyu beef tempura, served with a half-boiled egg yolk and sweet sukiyaki sauce, is a signature dish at Tenshima and one that best expresses Shima’s philosophy. He emphasises that the most vital aspects of cooking are sometimes overlooked, but that is precisely what is most important in the pursuit of any craft.

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 “My approach at Tenshima places respect on the fundamentals,” he adds. “This includes serving each dish at the optimal temperature, precisely timed, and in the ideal portion. These simple yet essential aspects form the foundation of Tenshima’s kaiseki approach to tempura."

Nothing beats seeing Shima prepare or cook tempura one by one at the counter. It is a tradition to do so, conveying utmost care and prestige to the diner who is on the receiving end of this gastronomic artform.

Tenshima, 01-09, Millenia Walk, 9 Raffles Boulevard, ten-shima.com