Zeniya Singapore ups the luxury factor of kaiseki

An ethereal piece of lotus leaf wafts on the pristine hinoki wood counter, cradling the tsukuri (sashimi course) of refreshingly sweet shima ebi, maguro, hata, and ika somen. Moments before this, a chef deftly sliced hamo (conger eel), breaking down the minuscule bones with a satisfying snap, before it is cooked in a dashi concocted with bonito and aged kombu.

Partaking in a kaiseki meal is like enjoying opera, quips Shinichiro Takagi, chef-owner and executive chef of Zeniya Singapore, a contemporary kaiseki restaurant that opened in August. The second-generation chef, who studied in the United States, says in English: “Kaiseki is all about theatre-style acting and creating an atmosphere, weaving in the complex story of Japanese history, culture, and food.” 

The 43-seater restaurant is the Singapore outpost of the two Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant, Zeniya in Kanazawa, which was founded in 1970. Zeniya Singapore, which is a partnership between Shangri-La Singapore and restaurant group Les Amis, is one of the more prolific imports in Singapore’s competitive Japanese dining scene this year.

Related: First Look: Zeniya offers luxurious kaiseki dining from the heart of Kanazawa, Japan

With love from Kanazawa

Staying true to its Kanazawa roots, about 90 per cent of the produce is sourced from the city in Ishikawa prefecture and flown here two to three times a week. Takagi says: “Every morning, my brother Jiro or I will go to the local market in Kanazawa. We also visit the seaport and talk to farmers to understand what the best ingredients are for the day. The menu at our restaurant in Singapore depends on this.”

The 11-course dinner menu showcases the team’s procurement prowess with many unique and pricey ingredients from Kanazawa. They include kuchiko (sea cucumber ovaries), harvested from Noto Peninsula near Kanazawa. A semi-dried slab, which is half the size of a finger, is made from about 20 to 30kg of sea cucumbers.

Fried like tempura, it is creamy and savoury. Concluding the meal are the bejewelled Ruby Roman grapes, which contain at least 18 per cent of sugar. Only three farmers in Japan have been allowed to grow this rare grape varietal, and all of them are based in Kanazawa.

Related: 6 of the best donabe dishes for rice buckets

Showing a rich heritage

On opening its sole overseas outlet here, Takagi believes that the demand for Japanese cuisine in Singapore is huge. While there are many sushi- and kappo-style restaurants, there are not many that focus on traditional kaiseki, he says.

“Many diners from Singapore have visited our restaurant in Japan, and we are nothing short of amazed at how familiar they are with Japanese cuisine,” he adds. One of Zeniya’s signature dishes is its awabi dish, which was invented by Takagi’s father 50 years ago. The tender wild abalone is simmered for at least 15 hours, steamed and sauteed, and drenched in a bekkoan (a sauce made from dashi, soy, mirin, and kuzu starch).

Besides the food, Takagi wants to showcase a slice of Japanese heritage through the tableware, such as lacquered bowls intricately adorned with gold leaves, another famed export of Kanazawa. These bowls, which date back to 50 years ago, are inherited from the flagship restaurant. 

For its winter menu, expect seasonal ingredients such as yellowtail and snow crab. However, Takagi does not want to give too much away. He says: “There are many more ingredients from Kanazawa, but I will refrain from revealing too much as it would take the fun out of visiting Zeniya.”

Zeniya Singapore, Level 24, Shangri-La Singapore, 22 Orange Grove Road, zeniya.com.sg