Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva shot for the stars and accidentally landed on the moon

Wearing a watch made by Stepan Sarpaneva is akin to parading a Jean-Michel Basquiat on your wrist. Each of his painstakingly crafted timepieces, from the Art Deco-esque openworked creations to their slithering bracelets, look like fever dreams from his inquisitive mind.

Unlike top-tier timepieces from mainstream brands, Sarpaneva’s eponymous watches don’t cost an arm and a leg. Nevertheless, they aren’t easy to get hold of. The Finnish independent horologist makes only 50 to 100 watches a year, each of which he personally brings to life by hand, etch by etch, brushstroke by brushstroke.

His vaunted calling card: the moon. The celestial satellite is not just a highly sought-after indication and icon in watch collecting, but his obsession. Beyond adopting the moonphase as a signature, Sarpaneva hand-chisels the motif with a bold, cheeky expression that brings to mind French film director Georges Melies’ silver-screen depictions.

It isn’t just his one-of-a-kind artistry and limited production that command the esteem of the industry; he has the right pedigree. “When Kari Voutilainen was my boss and I was his right hand at Parmigiani, I learnt the basics of making a truly beautiful watch. When I went to work for Vianney Halter, our heads were always outside the box. There are rules, but Vianney emphasises that you don’t need to respect them,” he says.

After nearly 10 years of cutting his teeth at several maisons, which include Piaget and Christophe Claret, Sarpaneva founded his namesake brand in 2003 for his exquisite timepieces. And this was followed a year later with the launch of S.U.F (Sarpaneva Uhren Fabrik) Helsinki, initially targeted at his domestic market, which produces more affordable and readily available watches.

Today, Sarpaneva is well-known for his “grail watches” like the kaleidoscopic hand-painted Nakki; the hand-engraved collaboration of Sarpaneva x Moomin, the latter Finland’s most famous cartoon character; and the MoonMachine 2 in partnership with premier avant-garde horology house, MB&F. The allure of S.U.F Helsinki, which bears his unmistakable imprint, has also transcended international borders and tastes.

Bearing his artistry are two new limited-edition creations, only available at The Hour Glass, commemorating the 80th anniversary of the first Moomin tale.

The Sarpaneva Moomin 80 features a skeletonised steel shooting star aperture atop snoozing Moomins. Just as whimsical is the S.U.F Helsinki x Moomin, which comes in a first-in-brand diver’s watch case with an engraved bronze turning bezel. Both glow-in-the-dark creations, they boast a 42mm case in high-grade Outokumpu Finnish stainless steel with two dial colour choices.

You were in Singapore at IAMWATCH last year. What role have retailers played in your business?

Retailers like The Hour Glass are super important because people know that the watches they carry are quality products. I was chasing Michael Tay of The Hour Glass around watch fairs for years, saying “Hi, I am here! I have watches available!” They have also helped consumers become more knowledgeable about watches.

You’ve certainly carried your brand on your back for nearly 22 years. How hands-on are you now? 

I still work on all my watches’ dials and assemble them myself, but I sometimes leave the finishing and cleaning to my staff, because they have better eyesight.

Speaking of handmade dials, tell us about your fixation on the moon.

The moon happened by accident. In Finland, the darkness in the winter time is very fascinating. When you look up at the Finnish night sky, you will be inspired — you have to be.

Before I had a booth in the BaselWorld watch fair, I would carry my watches in my backpack and meet potential customers in restaurants around the fair. Vianney called me one day saying that Philippe Dufour felt too old to attend the fair, and asked me if I wanted his spot. My Korona models had grill dials, but the moonphase was indicated by just a yellow dot. That’s not enough!

I knew that I needed to make a showpiece for the fair. I looked back at what brands like Breguet had done, and I noticed that no moonphases had faces at that point. I drew some sketches, made the tooling for it, and the rest is history. Some people say it looks like me! 

How did your unique crescent-motif Moonbridge bracelet come about? 

Our bracelet is a separate piece of jewellery, so making it is a totally different story. Bracelets need to be reliable, comfortable, and easy to use. I looked to the Rolex Oyster bracelet, which has worked really well for years, and shaped it differently into my own style.

What are your plans for the near future with the Sarpaneva brand?

I have so many things that I would love to do but I have no time to. I want to continue telling the Sarpaneva story, but still create distinctive watches. And this year is the 80^th anniversary of Moomin.

What are the advantages of operating a watch company in Northern Europe, far from Switzerland’s borders? 

That’s exactly it! In Finland, I am doing my own stuff. Some Swiss brands are married to the industry — some ask suppliers what colour of dials everyone else is ordering, and book the same. I’m not influenced by that, I don’t have to follow trends, and I make what I enjoy.

We have to credit brands like A. Lange & Sohne. People said this about Lange: “But it’s made in Germany! Is it of the same value?” Brands like Lange proved that they provide a high level of quality and service, so for brands based outside Switzerland, we have to thank them for winning the buyer’s trust and maintaining their reputation.

Do you have advice for new independent watchmakers trying to grow their brand?

Many young watchmakers want to build their own watches, but not repair watches. Repairing thousands and thousands of watches helps watchmakers improve their skills, and customers will be able to see the difference in quality.

Style is a combination of many aspects of a watch, from the case and shape to the movement. Look for what might make your watch interesting, and build a reliable watch that will tell time accurately for a hundred years.