6 reasons why cult Champagne house Henri Giraud deserves a place in your cellar

Perhaps some of you are already seasoned collectors or have already discovered the joys of sipping on Henri Giraud aboard Singapore Airlines’ Suites and First Class cabins, but it’s worth reminding all Champagne lovers about just how unique the house is. For new enthusiasts, it’s certainly a label to embrace.

As the market, especially in Asia, continues to mature — with grower Champagne gaining traction, single vineyard labels coming into the spotlight, and sustainable practices getting more prevalent, consumers are moving towards exclusivity, and makers with a special story to tell.

And that’s where Julien Drevon of Pivene, the exclusive Henri Giraud distributor for Singapore, comes in, especially when this year marks the house’s 400th anniversary. Over some caviar and Champagne at the Pivene-owned Auterra wine bar and boutique, the former head sommelier of Waku Ghin and now-closed Guy Savoy at Marina Bay Sands spells out the reasons why it is a producer he is proud to represent.

1. A Living Legacy 

Founded in 1625 in the Grand Cru village of Ay, Henri Giraud represents 12 generations of uninterrupted family ownership — a rarity in today’s landscape dominated by large players. One of Champagne’s few remaining family-run houses, this artisan producer makes 250,000 to 300,000 bottles annually across its entire portfolio, just a fraction of the tens of millions from the conglomerates.

“The village of Ay is considered the heart of Champagne, with other famous houses being Billecart-Salmon and Bollinger,” says Drevon. “It is the birthplace of pinot noir. There were hand-written notes indicating that the founding Giraud-Hemart family already had a wine facility and was doing some trading that made pinot noir famous — before Champagne-making began.”

While sparkling wine-making began in Limoux in southern France, 17th century Benedictine monk Dom (Pierre) Perignon, from Hautvillers Abbey near the town of Epernay, was credited for developing the iconic art of blending called “methode champenoise”, or the Champagne method. And about 6km from the abbey is where Henri Giraud still stands today, continuing the legacy of this early achievement.

2. Sustainable and traceable winemaking

In an era when sustainability has become a marketing buzzword, Henri Giraud’s respect for the environment has always been a part of its DNA. The winery’s “Triple Zero” approach — zero pesticides, zero herbicides, zero insecticides — reflects a fundamental belief that great wine begins with healthy vineyards and practices.

This philosophy extends to its groundbreaking work with the Argonne Forest, which is near Ay, where the house participates in a replanting programme to offset the oak used for their barrels. 

3. Signature Argonne oak 

Perhaps no element defines Henri Giraud’s identity more than its revolutionary use of oak from the Argonne Forest. This age-old tradition, revived by Claude Giraud in the 1990s, has become the maison’s signature. “The forest isn’t a marketing tool — it’s part of the DNA for original Champagne-making,” emphasises Drevon, on the living dialogue between forest and vine. “The oak trees raised there are so different from other forests.

What makes this oak so special? Sourced from trees as old as 200 years, barrels made from the wood add a unique depth and complexity, and influence the wine’s acidity, fruit notes, and overall structure. 

Since the 1990s, single-terroir parcels of the forest are specially reserved for Henri Giraud, which selects specific trees for its creations — a painstaking process that is unheard of in the industry. “The toasting of the barrels is now overseen by its managing director and cellar master Sebastian Le Golvet, who assesses the process by nose — based on the smell it produces,” Drevon explains, describing a process that sounds more like alchemy than cooperage. 

4. Relentless innovation

Apart from the use of exclusive Argonne oak, among the house’s impressive list of innovations are the change from terracotta to sandstone amphora fermentation to ensure ultimate precision for its Dame Jane Rose NV, and the renovation of its 19th century manor as the hospitality-focused retreat, Manoir Henri Giraud.

Once home to the Giraud family, the guest accommodation now welcomes oenophiles with elegantly modern rooms, private tours of the domaine, vineyard walks, and tastings of its Champagne and other offerings like ratafia and champenois. Adds Drevon, “It also offers an elevated gastronomic experience during which the sommelier prepares specific dishes and pairs them with the various cuvees. Lunch and dinner are both offered, but advance booking is required.”

“The world of fine wine is very complicated,” Drevon observes. “As consumers, we don’t see all the steps taken to come up with marvellous products. It involves a lot of risks the maker faces throughout the calendar year, such as bad weather, climate change, and vine diseases. This is why innovations in not just in the production process, but also in sustainability and vineyard management, are essential to ensure Henri Giraud’s future.”

5. Strategic focus on Asia

“Singapore is one the very important markets for Henri Giraud,” says Drevon, noting its seasonal presence on Singapore Airlines and Korean Air’s premium cabins. This affinity for its Asian consumers began decades ago in Japan, where chefs and restaurants developed close relationships with the house. “The USA is such a big market that if Henri Giraud were to focus on it, there’d be very little left for Asia.”

All three of Singapore’s three-Michelin-starred restaurants also feature Henri Giraud. “Odette has been serving the multi-vintage (MV) cuvees for 10 years since it opened; Les Amis started last year with the Perpetual Reserve; and Zen is serving the Argonne 2013,” elaborates Drevon.

6. Something for everyone

Only produced in exceptional years, the flagship Argonne range represents Henri Giraud’s highest expression — a full-bodied Champagne aged exclusively in barrels made from parcel-specific Argonne oaks that impart a wealth of intense notes, powerful structure, and long finish. Consistently critically acclaimed, the Argonne Ay Grand Cru 2015 was rated 98 by James Suckling, while the Argonne Rose Ay Grand Cru 2012 was given 100 points by Robert Parker.

Its iconic MV cuvees, drawn from a perpetual reserve started in 1990, offer complex layers of flavours, demonstrating the house’s mastery of blending across vintages. On the wallet-friendly end are its Esprit Nature and Esprit Nature “G” labels — the former fruity and lively, and the latter rich and creamy. 

Currently, Pivene carries 36 offerings from Henri Giraud — all rated in the 90s, with the majority attaining a score of 95 and above. Celebrating its 400th birthday, the retailer has launched a promotion of 30 per cent off its full Henri Giraud portfolio, which features prices from $99 to $2,937 before discount, until June 22. What an opportunity to experience what Drevon, whose favourite is the MV series, calls “a house that represents the past and future of Champagne”.