A man’s Serpenti watch — and why not?

When two titans of watchmaking join forces, sparks are bound to fly. In Bvlgari’s second collaboration with avant-garde independent watchmaker MB&F, the result is a timepiece that transcends traditional boundaries.

Following on the 2021 MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra, which was a stunning fusion of Bvlgari’s jewellery expertise and MB&F’s horological innovation, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti builds on that success while elevating the emblematic’s snake relevance to a wider — and more masculine — audience.

Says Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s director of watch design, “Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise.”

Reimagined as a kinetic sculpture, this take on the Serpenti is a study in complexity and artistry. Adds Stigliani, “This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce. The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon.”

The creation’s 39mm case, made in grade 5 titanium, black PVD-coated stainless steel, or 18K rose gold, is a masterpiece of biomorphic design. The sinuous curves of the case, inspired by the serpent’s fluid form, required hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models to perfect. Each angle, from the front to the back, had to be meticulously balanced to ensure aesthetic harmony.

The case is further enhanced by five sapphire crystals, including the snake’s eyes and a multi-faceted rear section, all treated with anti-reflective coating. These crystals provide a window into the intricate movement within, while also posing a significant technical challenge. 

MB&F founder Maximilian Busser reveals more details, “The combination of curved metals and sapphire crystals is not only extremely difficult to machine and finish but also incredibly challenging to make water-resistant to 30 metres.”

At the heart of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti lies a manual-winding in-house movement developed by MB&F. This complex calibre, comprising 310 components, breaks traditional watchmaking conventions with its pioneering design. 

The serpent’s eyes are brought to life through revolving hour and minute domes, crafted from lightweight aluminium and coated with Super-LumiNova. The left dome completes a full rotation in 12 hours, while the right dome does so in 60 minutes, creating a mesmerising display of time.

The movement also features a bespoke 14mm flying balance wheel, beating at 2.5Hz (18,000bph), and a 3D balance bridge bearing the names of both brands. The power reserve indicator, visible through the caseback, adds a functional yet artistic touch.

As both Stigliani and Busser are avid car enthusiasts, their shared passion for automotive design has subtly influenced the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti. The case’s sleek curves resemble automotive bodywork, while the stepped sapphire crystal evokes the rear window flaps of a sports car. The crowns, reminiscent of car wheels, and the movement’s grille-like components further underscore this automotive connection.

Each of the three limited editions is restricted to just 33 pieces. The titanium version features blue hour and minute domes, while the rose gold model boasts piercing green eyes. The black PVD-coated stainless steel edition comes alive with vibrant red domes. Each piece is paired with a hand-stitched rubber strap, colour-coordinated with the domes, and secured with an ardillon buckle.